Thursday, October 17, 2013

Daragaon Village, Part I

For the past month I have been staying in a remote village in West Bengal called Daragaon. It is an hour walk from the nearest road and a 2-3 hour walk from the nearest town, Rimbik. Rimbik is about five hours by jeep from Darjeeling. Daragaon is very close to Sikkim and from the village is a beautiful view of Sikkim and the rolling foothills of the Himalaya, as well as of Darjeeling.

View out my bedroom window

The village is Nepali-speaking and the majority of the residents are Rai in ethnicity and Hindu in religion. There are also Sherpa, Tamang and other ethnicities, as well as Buddhists and Christians. My main goal in the village is to learn as much Nepali language as possible.

I am staying with a local family which includes the principal of the English-language primary school, Red Star Academy. During the week, I help with English lessons for grades 1-6. Compared to American students, the Nepali students are incredibly motivated, well-behaved and eager to learn, but also quiet and afraid to make mistakes. From grade 3 and beyond, they are quite proficient in English and I can give instructions to them with few misunderstandings. All of the classes have English books. This is quite helpful for the older grades, but for grades 1 and 2 they are utterly useless, as their understanding of English is quite little and everything would need to be translated into Nepali (which, needless to say, is far beyond my ability). For these students, I must be more creative and use a mixture of games, drawing and other activities.


Red Star Academy

School Grounds

The region's staple food is rice. In general, it is eaten twice a day with vegetables which are grown in the village. Rice isn't grown in Daragaon as the elevation is too high, but many vegetables such as potatoes, green beans, squash and others are grown here.

Typical meal of rice, green beans and soup
Commonly a meal like this will be eaten twice in a day, once around 9 am and once around 6 pm. It is also common to make "roti" from rice flour, and eat that with a meal instead of rice.

Rolling the "puri" so it's ready to fry



Frying in mustard oil
There is also an abundance of tea, which is consumed in very large quantities. I drink between 5 and 10 cups of tea per day, usually with milk and sometimes with sugar or salt. Since there are only two main meals in a day, it's common to have a snack in between the meals, such as my favorite of tea and corn.

My daily afterschool snack
Cooking is commonly done over a fire with a stove such as the one seen below. Many families also have gas stoves but it is more common to use a traditional stove.


I've been able to be able to partake in several Hindu "pujas" or prayers. Several times I have gone to a local house and prayed with them to an Indian guru, called SaiBaba. Although I'm never really sure what is happening, it is a fascinating experience nonetheless.

Offerings

SaiBaba, as well as Hindu Gods

I recently got the opportunity to go to two different wedding receptions. The first was a Buddhist Sherpa wedding and the second Hindu Rai, but the structure was quite similar for both.


Site of the Buddhist Sherpa Wedding

Upon first arriving, we were ushering into a sort of waiting room where we were given soft drinks and light snacks. After a little while there, we were led to a buffet which included rice, roti, lentils, meat (for the Sherpa wedding only), and a variety of vegetables and other foods that I can't identify.


Buffet Room

Sherpa ladies in traditional dress
After eating we went into the house where we got to see the bride and groom. They weren't keen to have their picture taken, but everyone else there was.

Shy Bride and Groom?

Offerings

Buddhist Monks

Family, eager to have their photo taken

The second wedding followed an almost identical structure, but was slightly larger in size. The bride and groom were prominently displayed.

Very dressed up, and slightly bored?
I've been in the village for a month now and am really enjoying the experience. Everything is so different, which means I am learning a lot. I'll stay in the area until my visa expires in December, at which point I'll be returning to Nepal.



Saturday, September 14, 2013

Bhutanese Refugee Camps

I have had the great privilege of visiting the Bhutanese Refugee Camps outside of Damak, Nepal. In the US, I have been working and volunteering with newly-arrived Bhutanese refugees and have grown quite close to many of them. Because of this strong relationship, I wished to visit the camps and get a small taste of what life is like there. Here, I will attempt to honestly express my experience there. Since it was a very short visit, my impressions may not accurately reflect the camps.

Currently there are four refugee camps, all located near the town of Damak in the eastern Terai region. The camps are overseen by the UNHCR (UN Refugee Agency).The refugees have been living there for more than twenty years.

The houses or "huts" are made of bamboo and thatch.


Fire is a great threat to the homes of the refugees and there have been many fires which destroy tens if not a hundred homes. When their home is lost, the refugees sometimes must live in the nearby jungle for up to a month while a new hut is built.

Another threat to the huts and the lives of the refugees is elephants. The jungle is nearby and at least once a year and elephant or two will wander out to steal food, especially salt. I was told that in the past five years, elephants have killed around 15 people, and destroyed numerous huts.

Some families own shops that sell a variety of goods, from snacks, to hair clips to basic medicine.


Electricity is not provided and comes from solar panels (see above on roof) which the refugees must buy themselves. If they don't buy a solar panal, then they don't have electricity in their home.

Caritas Nepal provides free education (including supplies and one uniform) up until class 10, at which point they must pay to go to college or university outside of the camp if they want to continue their studies. I visited the school and several classes.

Eighth Grade

Eighth grade

First Grade

School Grounds
There is also a variety of training programs, such as mechanics, teaching, sewing, and electronic repair. I sat in on a couple of beauty parlor training classes.

"Butterfly"
Employment options in the camp are very limited. The refugees aren't supposed to seek outside employment but many do, sometimes in faraway towns. However, once they start the resettlement process they must be able to report often and thus it is not possible to work far from the camp at that point.

The UNHCR and Lutheran World Federation (LWF) provide rations to the camp residents. Every two weeks they receive rice, sugar, salt, pulse (lentils), vegetable/palm oil, and 'super cereal'. There are some community gardens in the camps where vegetables are grown. Some families have pigs or other livestock that they can use for food. But in general, vegetables and meat must be bought.

Water comes from taps for two hours every morning, and two hours every evening. The water is filtered and considered safe for drinking. Around 60 huts share each tap. Between 6-10 people live in each hut.



There are a variety of programs in the camp, including:
  • Bhutanese Refugee Womens Forum - provides help to women suffering from domestic abuse
  • Youth Friendly Center - provides trainings and sports for youth
  • Childcare Center - helps orphans and children whose parents have alcohol additions
  • Happy Nepal - assists with mental health and alcohol and drug additions
  • And certainly others....


There are many recreational activities in the camp, including sports such as soccer (football), volleyball, badminton, table tennis and cricket.

Soccer Match
The camps have health centers which provide free care for basic treatment, while more serious ailments are sent to the hospital in Damak. For very serious cases they are sent to a hospital in a larger town such as Biratnagar. Common diseases in the camps are TB, diabetes, and pneumonia, especially in children. If someone has cancer or a serious disease, their resettlement process will quicken.

Nearly every single person I met was in the process of resettlement and knew their destination. Most go to the US but some also go to Australia, Norway, Denmark, and other Western countries. For the most part, people go where their family has already resettled. Over 60,000 Bhutanese refugees have resettled in the US alone since 2008 when they began to leave the camps.

Despite the close living quarters, from my impression theft and violence did not seem to be very frequent. There is a great sense of community in the camps, where everyone knows each other and looks out for one another. The spirit is very hopeful and positive, at least from my impression.

I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to visit the refugee camps and be welcoming by the incredibly kind, hopeful and generous people there.


Friday, September 6, 2013

Kathmandu, Nepal

About a week ago I came from Malaysia to Kathmandu. For the first two nights I stayed with a lovely family who had two small children.

Diya, age 9

Dishanta, age 3
They showed me around a bit, to some really nice places such as Swayambhu Stupa, also known as Monkey Temple.


I saw some other sites during my time in Kathmandu, including...


Darbur Square

Cremation at Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath 

Pashupatinath 

After staying with my first couchhosts for a few days, I went to stay with another family.



They lived close to a river and hill which had a great view of Kathmandu Valley





September 5th was Father's Day in Nepal, and there was a big festival in Gokarna with LOTS of people.

Many people bathing in the river

Many things for sale on the street


From my second host family I learned the traditional way to make chapati.



The food has been delicious, as expected...









Friday, August 30, 2013

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


I spent two nights in Kuala Lumpur before leaving Malaysia. I was staying with Archana from Mumbai, and her two lovely cats. As I am somewhat obsessed with cats, this was a wonderful set up.

Hobbs and Biggles

I had just one full day to explore the city. I met with another Couchsurfer and we started off by going to Masjid Negara - the National Mosque.

In proper attire..


From there we went to Perdana Botanical Gardens. It was beautiful.



Afterwards I went to Dataran Merdeka or "Independence Square." Malaysian Independence Day is 31 August, so there were many schoolkids there practising a sort of dance (for lack of a better word) for the upcoming date.



Any visit to Kuala Lumpur wouldn't be complete without seeing the "twin towers" (the tallest twins in the world)....

The photo doesn't do them justice

...Or without trying some new Malay food.


Vegetarian "Nyonya Laksa": A Malay classic